OK, so you’ve bought one of the Arduino boards, downloaded some development software, and figured out how to talk to the Arduino to do simple tasks. Now you want to introduce Arduino to the outside world, so you’ll have to learn something about electronics in order to keep that “magic smoke” (more like the odoriferous black cloud of doom!) from escaping from your new little workhorse.
The easiest way to get the Arduino practicing safe outside world contact is to use one of the many “shields” that are available. These are circuit boards which are especially created to interface the Arduino and plug right on to the Arduino board. [click to continue…]
As a computer scientist turned electronics hobbyist trying to fill the gaps in my knowledge of electronics, I find myself visiting the electronics forum over at EEWeb quite a lot these days. (I am a lurker not yet ready for my de-lurking move, though). They are a community of EEs eager to help others, sharing tons of online resources, news, projects and general electronics expertise. Whether you don’t know what a microcontroller is, or are looking for an affordable used oscilloscope on eBay, you are sure to benefit from the information on their forums.
Ready for a break? Check out Return to Zero, their comic strip.
Looking for a challenge? Check out their electronics quizzes!
As I move to the next phase on the IPON project, and before I commit to a circuit to be implanted in the first plush object, I was considering the following:
In my last post I presented the circuit I’ll be implanting in the plush objects; it used a force sensor (FSR) to be placed on the plush animal’s nose, which when pressed, will trigger the behavior response to that. (By the way I connected the sensor to a digital input, which means that the force applied, an analog value, was translated to either a 0 or a 1; it would have been better to use an analog pin and calibrate it so that it wouldn’t require so strong a force. The cuttoff used on the digital pin requires too much force to be used.)
I’m thinking instead of a FSR to use a push-button, as it will represend a savings of over $5 per plush object (remember, this project’s intended goal is to serve as electronics teaching to high-school at-risk students. So price is an important design factor). [click to continue…]
On my last post I introduced the IPON project, and today I’m sharing the implementation of Phase 0 of this project. (You may want to refer to the previous post if you haven’t yet read it, as this post will probably make much more sense if you know what the IPON project is about).
In Phase 0 I have the complete circuit and sketch that make up Phase 1, except the circuit is not yet implanted in the plush object. It’s just a rough prototype to make sure things work before I go about
murdering cutting up a dear plush companion.
[click to continue…]
The Identified Plush Object Network is one of a few bigger projects that I want to work on this year. The idea is to create a network of small plush animals that interact with users, each other, and the Internet. I called it “Identified” because as a separate project I’m working with an RFID reader/writer module I want to create a simpler interface for, and once that piece is working each object in the network will be tagged as well.
The motivation for the project is non-profit work I want to do in the future with at-risk minority youth here in Orange County, CA. I want to create something that can be built in phases that get increasingly complex as the students learn, but that starts simple enough to enable hands-on participation from day one. Software improvements will be made in each iteration. [click to continue…]
I have recently received the following question from a reader:
I’m looking for a circuit board design that will need to turn on an array of LEDs when motion is detected during the day time, and also stay on continuously during the night time; using the Arduino would be nice. The project that I am working on is just a picture frame with my artwork in it. The art is actually an embossed piece. The light that I am placing within the frame will shine across the embossed art, and reflect off the raised areas of paper and make the picture appear more three-dimensional. So, the picture acts as a night light when it’s dark, and then turns on for a moment during the day time when some approaches the picture.
I suspected there had to be a simple circuit to accomplish this without having to program a microcontroller to take care of triggering the light. I could see that was overkill; after all, it is just a way to switch lights on/off. Still, I had no idea how to do it, if not from a software point of view.
[click to continue…]
Back in April I posted about a goal I had for this year: setting up a decent workbench for myself in a corner of my (minuscule) home office. As the year comes to an end, I think it’s time for an update.
Did it happen exactly as planned? No…
Did I make progress? Yes!
So what happened?
[click to continue…]
When I posted the “LED Control Using DIP Switch” sketch last year (a simple setup the turned on the LED corresponding to that switch position), I also had a slightly modified version of it in which the DIP switch controlled six different light patterns on the LEDs (scroll right, left, in, out, back and forth and random). It presented a “cleaned-up” version of the code using for loops and compared it to the “long-hand” version, showing the trade-off between ease of understanding and conciseness. Except that… I forgot to post it.
Last week someone contacted me asking a question about a similar project he is working on and when I wanted to refer him to this modified sketch I realized it wasn’t on the blog. (Here’s the original sketch and schematic for reference). [click to continue…]
This is a review of the Lumex LCR-U12864GSF-WH which was recently sent to me by Newark as part of their Product Road Testing program.
The Lumex LCR-U12864GSF-WH is a graphic LCD display (pardon the redundancy) with white backlighting and screen measuring 128 pixels in width and 64 pixels in height. It uses the standard KS0108 chip by Samsung, and a well documented Arduino library is available for download.
The viewing area is 38.8mm x 70mm (1.5″ x 2.75″) and the entire display fits the palm of your hand. [click to continue…]
The GLO-216 2×16 Multifont Serial OLED allows you to translate 9600bps serial data into bright, high-contrast text on a compact screen. This low cost, low power serial display comes in two font colors (yellow and green) and is made and sold by seetron.com, owned by Scott Edwards of Electronics Now and Nuts & Volts fame.
Think of the GLO-216 as a “mini terminal” that displays text and custom characters and responds to control characters such as tabs, linefeeds, carriage returns, backspace, etc. It is compatible with RS-232, Stamps, PICs and Arduino; pretty much any serial out, really.
The display uses less than 50mA, so it can be connected straight to the Arduino’s power supply. [click to continue…]